CPTnet
July 12, 2003
HEBRON REFLECTION: Sitting in the Market
by Jim Satterwhite
These last few days I have spent quite a bit of time sitting and talking to
merchants in the old market. It's more of a ghost town than a market now.
Few people are willing to risk harassment from the soldiers in order to come
into the Old City. The Israeli army and settlers have closed off some parts
of the old market and expropriated other parts, so many merchants couldn't
open if they wanted to. Still, a few shopkeepers come and open shop in the
morning on those days when there is no curfew. They have virtually no
business, but are making a statement that they will not be driven out by the
army or the settlers.
Several of them know some English, and I have picked up some words and
phrases in Arabic, so we manage to communicate. We have talked a lot about
religion, about the political and economic situation, about homes that have
been demolished in their circle of family and friends, and about changes
over the years. They often remark on how this used to be a thriving market,
packed with shoppers. They seem forlorn, almost resigned, but still they
come every day they can.
The other day, I was sitting and talking to the local barber on a stool
outside the barbershop. An Israeli army patrol came up through the market.
Four soldiers, guns at the ready, came through in combat formation. They
seemed ill at ease,wary of what they might find, yet determined to enforce
"security."
I suddenly realized that by contrast I was at home here, an invited
guest, having a conversation. My conversation partners and I don't always
agree on everything, but we have a mutual respect.
The next day I was sitting by another shopkeeper friend who was reciting
passages from the Koran prior to Friday prayers when the same patrol came
by. It must have seemed strange to them to see me just sitting there while
my friend continued his recitation, but I felt perfectly at ease - I felt
centered as in a Quaker meeting.
I was able to greet the soldiers as they walked by on their patrol and
sincerely wish them a good afternoon. They are not my enemy, even if I
challenge what they are here to do. If I am hostile to them, I fuel the
cycle of violence. If I can find it in my heart to engage them, then I help
prevent the violence around me from also becoming a part of me.
That day I was able to bridge the gap. That day for me was a small moment of
revelation, all in an instant, just sitting there in the market.
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